On the 29th January we were introduced to the Critical Practitioner module and what is expected of us by the end of the project. We will be required to make a -
Deadline - Friday 9th May
- Research Blog
- Critical Essay - 2,000 words
Deadline - Friday 9th May
Session One - Dress to Kill
29th January
Reading - Beverly Gordon AMERICAN DENIM
All clothing is a cultural text. This means they are capable of conveying semiotics - which is the study of signs in society. Often these signs are grouped together to form codes, such as the language of clothing and media.
Values of Clothes
Cultural Connotations of Colour
In fashion wearing different colours is an example of a cultural connotation. This means we as a community associate different colours with different meanings and social understanding. The colour black can be seen as - neutral, mourning, authority, versatile, death, doom, fear, witches, goth, rock and even forbidden in some cultures. This proves that we associate colours with a background even if this wasn't the original intent of the person wearing it. In media villains are often portrayed wearing the colour black because of the viewers immediate connotation of the colour to mean villainy.
Values of Clothes
- Comfort - practicality
- Disguise and Body Impact - modesty, costume
- Social Status - controlling devices, societal role
- Symbolic Encoding - artefacts, colour
- Personal Expression - engagement, relationships
- Expressing Allegiance - brands, political
- Cultural Markers - consumer culture, contemporary, beliefs
Cultural Connotations of Colour
In fashion wearing different colours is an example of a cultural connotation. This means we as a community associate different colours with different meanings and social understanding. The colour black can be seen as - neutral, mourning, authority, versatile, death, doom, fear, witches, goth, rock and even forbidden in some cultures. This proves that we associate colours with a background even if this wasn't the original intent of the person wearing it. In media villains are often portrayed wearing the colour black because of the viewers immediate connotation of the colour to mean villainy.
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Case Study - Jeans
Why are jeans so popular? Jeans haven't always been so popular, they have been through many years of speculation and acceptance to achieve the popularity it has today.
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The Jean Cycle
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Step One
1870s - 19-30s Functional Garment Durable, heavy physical work Western mythology Rural working class Step Two 1940s Nostalgic totem Fashion Icon Myth of the Wild West 'All American Blue Jean' |
Step Three
1950s - 1970s Adopted by youth intertextuality Media - movies, books, music Unisex Step Four 1980s - Present Lifestyle accessory Concept > function Designer Brands Outsourcing - Process is hidden |
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Clothes as signs...
- They are not neutral
- Conveyors of meaning and value
- Open to multiple interpretations
- Design is dependant on the audience interpretation
Blog Task
Using your own item of clothing, write how a cultural text can reflect the culture in which it was created, critique: design, materials and manufacture details, form, function, colour and cultural connotations.
250 – 300 words
250 – 300 words
My brown knitted jumper is much more than just a piece of clothing, it embodies a tapestry of cultural significance that varies across different societies. From cozy family gatherings to traditional festivals, knitted clothing carries with it a sense of warmth, both physically and emotionally. Features of jumpers can be simple patterns that evoke feelings of comfort and nostalgia, often showcasing a preference for practicality and comfort over flashy styles.
The materials used, typically wool or alpaca, show a connection to nature and sustainability. This choice shows a growing cultural awareness about the environment. If it is handmade, the jumper emphasizes traditional skills and craftsmanship, telling a story of community and heritage.
In terms of form versus function, my jumper is both stylish and warm. Its cozy, oversized fit makes it perfect for casual wear while keeping me comfortable in colder weather. The neutral brown color allows it to match various outfits, making it a versatile in any wardrobe.
The colour brown represents stability and warmth. It evokes a sense of reliability and connection to nature, reflecting a grounded approach to life. This color also aligns with modern trends that favor simplicity and mindfulness.
In conclusion, my brown jumper is a cultural artifact that embodies values of sustainability, comfort, and practicality. Through its design, materials, and color, it tells a story about the identity and values of the society it comes from, making it a meaningful addition to any wardrobe.
The materials used, typically wool or alpaca, show a connection to nature and sustainability. This choice shows a growing cultural awareness about the environment. If it is handmade, the jumper emphasizes traditional skills and craftsmanship, telling a story of community and heritage.
In terms of form versus function, my jumper is both stylish and warm. Its cozy, oversized fit makes it perfect for casual wear while keeping me comfortable in colder weather. The neutral brown color allows it to match various outfits, making it a versatile in any wardrobe.
The colour brown represents stability and warmth. It evokes a sense of reliability and connection to nature, reflecting a grounded approach to life. This color also aligns with modern trends that favor simplicity and mindfulness.
In conclusion, my brown jumper is a cultural artifact that embodies values of sustainability, comfort, and practicality. Through its design, materials, and color, it tells a story about the identity and values of the society it comes from, making it a meaningful addition to any wardrobe.
Session Two - The Image of Passion
5th February
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Reading One - Jonathan Bignell MEDIA SEMIOTICS
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Reading Two - Roland Barthes MYTHOLOGIES/WORLD OF WRESTLING
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Structuralism and Semiotics
Semiotics is the study of signs and sign systems within society, this is anything that is capable of conveying meaning - words, images, clothing, etc.
Last week we looked into how clothing is a semiotic, this week is about images and gestures.
Semiotics is a critical methodology to study
The origins of semiotics come from the Greek word semeion which means ‘sign’
Semiotics is the study of signs and sign systems within society, this is anything that is capable of conveying meaning - words, images, clothing, etc.
Last week we looked into how clothing is a semiotic, this week is about images and gestures.
Semiotics is a critical methodology to study
- how signs communicate cultural meanings
- how we relate to signs
- useful framework for deconstructing visual texts
The origins of semiotics come from the Greek word semeion which means ‘sign’
Saussure
The passive v constructive view of language.
Saussure proposed that our perception of reality is constructed by words and other signs around us. Some words can have multiple interpretations depending on the consumers ideology, therefore language is ideological (carries traces of political thought and cultural ideas)
Saussure came up with the ‘Circuit of Speech’
Communication between people is all about the exchange of minds, the communication and understand signs depends on the mutual understanding of similar concepts.
If given the same singular word individuals will think of different meanings and interpretations of the word, cannot assume everyone thinks the same.
Words are symbolic signs.
The passive v constructive view of language.
Saussure proposed that our perception of reality is constructed by words and other signs around us. Some words can have multiple interpretations depending on the consumers ideology, therefore language is ideological (carries traces of political thought and cultural ideas)
Saussure came up with the ‘Circuit of Speech’
Communication between people is all about the exchange of minds, the communication and understand signs depends on the mutual understanding of similar concepts.
If given the same singular word individuals will think of different meanings and interpretations of the word, cannot assume everyone thinks the same.
Words are symbolic signs.
Signifier + Signified = Sign
signifier: physical representation - verbal or textual content
signified: mental concept - cognitive reading
Langue - whole language system
Sign - single word
Parole - partial example of speech or writing
Syntagm - a complete, ordered sequence of signs(sentence)
signifier: physical representation - verbal or textual content
signified: mental concept - cognitive reading
Langue - whole language system
Sign - single word
Parole - partial example of speech or writing
Syntagm - a complete, ordered sequence of signs(sentence)
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'The myths which suffuse our lives are insidious precisely because they appear so natural — they call out for the detailed analysis which semiotics can deliver’
(Roland Barthes – Mythologies) |
MYTHOLOGIES
Myth refers to sites in mainstream culture which reflect dominant ways of thinking, they are structured to send messages, such as propaganda.
The material force of society is also its ruling intellectual force, for example how newspapers can be influential to the public of certain points of view. Dominant ideologies can only make it through the bigger groups understanding, as it becomes the overall consensus.
THE WORLD OF WRESTLING
Barthe was writing about 1950s wrestling and wrote from a spectators point of view, it was seen as a sport and written about often. It intrigued him so he wrote THE WORLD OF WRESTLING. In the 70s wrestling was brought to the television as the sport was getting bigger worldwide.
How is the role of each wrestler defined to the audience?
The role of each wrestler is conveyed at the beginning by announcing both their stage names and a small introduction. They both have costumes to define each fighter and their roles - hero and villain. This is also conveyed in their respective colours, blue is for the hero and red for the villain. Giant Haystacks also came out in a huge fur coat which implies to his arrogance and confidence in winning the fight.
What is the role played by the commentator?
The commentator is explaining to viewers in the venue and anyone watching at home the logistics and rules on what is going on. This is so anyone who is new or watching mid fight can understand what is happening. He is also amplifying the fight to encourage viewers to support a certain person - therefore more support for wrestling.
What is the role of the referee?
The referee is there to break up the fight at certain points for suspense and keep the viewers guessing on who is going to win. It also makes the fighting seem more dangerous as someone needs to stop the fight if someone is too hurt, keep an eye on them. However, if the referee is ignored this will make the fight more interesting and highlight the wrestlers.
Is the action in the ring clear to follow? How is it?
For anyone at home the action is clear to follow as there is multiple camera views of the ring and the commentator to clarify what is happening. However, for someone in the venue itself up close is it clear to follow as you can see the ring but for someone closer to the back they could only be supported from word of mouth and reactions of the closer audience if they do not have a clear view of the ring. Cheers and boos are a clear sign of a good and bad situation happening as everyone understands them as such. ‘Booing’ is the cultural connotation for being unhappy with an outcome.
Would you classify wrestling as a sport?
Personally, I think wrestling is and is not a sport. It is in terms of there is a point system and rules in place, followed by a winner but it could also just be seen as entertainment. The story of two characters fighting and finishing on a climactic note - being flipped over the ring onto a table of flowers was staged. Everything happening is clarified/written beforehand for suspenseful moments and an ending viewers will approve of, proven by the fighters not properly ‘punching’ and looking over shoulders just when something is going to happen.
Myth refers to sites in mainstream culture which reflect dominant ways of thinking, they are structured to send messages, such as propaganda.
The material force of society is also its ruling intellectual force, for example how newspapers can be influential to the public of certain points of view. Dominant ideologies can only make it through the bigger groups understanding, as it becomes the overall consensus.
THE WORLD OF WRESTLING
Barthe was writing about 1950s wrestling and wrote from a spectators point of view, it was seen as a sport and written about often. It intrigued him so he wrote THE WORLD OF WRESTLING. In the 70s wrestling was brought to the television as the sport was getting bigger worldwide.
How is the role of each wrestler defined to the audience?
The role of each wrestler is conveyed at the beginning by announcing both their stage names and a small introduction. They both have costumes to define each fighter and their roles - hero and villain. This is also conveyed in their respective colours, blue is for the hero and red for the villain. Giant Haystacks also came out in a huge fur coat which implies to his arrogance and confidence in winning the fight.
What is the role played by the commentator?
The commentator is explaining to viewers in the venue and anyone watching at home the logistics and rules on what is going on. This is so anyone who is new or watching mid fight can understand what is happening. He is also amplifying the fight to encourage viewers to support a certain person - therefore more support for wrestling.
What is the role of the referee?
The referee is there to break up the fight at certain points for suspense and keep the viewers guessing on who is going to win. It also makes the fighting seem more dangerous as someone needs to stop the fight if someone is too hurt, keep an eye on them. However, if the referee is ignored this will make the fight more interesting and highlight the wrestlers.
Is the action in the ring clear to follow? How is it?
For anyone at home the action is clear to follow as there is multiple camera views of the ring and the commentator to clarify what is happening. However, for someone in the venue itself up close is it clear to follow as you can see the ring but for someone closer to the back they could only be supported from word of mouth and reactions of the closer audience if they do not have a clear view of the ring. Cheers and boos are a clear sign of a good and bad situation happening as everyone understands them as such. ‘Booing’ is the cultural connotation for being unhappy with an outcome.
Would you classify wrestling as a sport?
Personally, I think wrestling is and is not a sport. It is in terms of there is a point system and rules in place, followed by a winner but it could also just be seen as entertainment. The story of two characters fighting and finishing on a climactic note - being flipped over the ring onto a table of flowers was staged. Everything happening is clarified/written beforehand for suspenseful moments and an ending viewers will approve of, proven by the fighters not properly ‘punching’ and looking over shoulders just when something is going to happen.
Blog Task
Summarise your view of THE WORLD OF WRESTLING
Roland Barthes' essay "The World of Wrestling" offers a compelling view of professional wrestling not as a sport, but as a theatrical show reffered to as bullfighting. In opposition to competitive sports like boxing, which emphasize the significance of the final result, wrestling captivates audiences through its expressive representations of anguish, justice, and moral themes. Barthes emphasizes that each movement and action within wrestling is carefully designed to be easily understood by the audience, with wrestlers' physical characteristics and reactions heightened to convey specific meanings and emotions. The wrestlers themselves embody distinct figures — the wicked "bastard" or the heroic champion — through their physical presence and behavior, reminiscent of characters depicted in classical theatre. The spectacle is predicated upon hyperbolic displays of suffering and a transparent moral framework in which justice is then enacted, with audiences deriving particular pleasure from the defeat handed out to villains for their transgressions. Although instances of "fair" contests do exist, they are infrequent and function primarily as anomalies, as the audience predominantly watch for the drama arising from foul play and subsequent vengeance. Barthes proposes that wrestling provides what he terms a "perfect intelligibility of reality" — a realm where meanings leave no doubt, justice is upheld, and the separation of good versus evil is distinctly conveyed. Ultimately, wrestling operates similarly to a religious spectacle, transforming ordinary individuals into symbolic entities who enact grand moral narratives for the emotional and ethical gratification of the audience.
Session Three - Words & Images
12th February
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Reading One - Roland Barthes THE PHOTOGRAPHIC MESSAGE
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Reading Two - Scott McCloud MAKING COMICS
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RECAP
- Semiotics is the study of signs within popular culture
- A sign is anything capable of conveying meaning
- It was developed by a study of language by Ferdinand Saussure and Charles Pierce
- Signifier + Signified = Sign
- Communicating signs depends on a mutual understanding
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THE WORLD OF WRESTLING
Key Points The semiotic code in this text is the body language and gestures which are easily decoded by the audience. Wrestling presents the illusion of the image of passion - not the passion itself. It is a performance not a sport. Frame of Reference
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Words
The plane of expression is how something is said, written or designed affects how it is understood and conveyed by the viewer.
Images are iconic signs, this means they involve direct perception - they resemble what they represent.
- Arbitrary signs - do not resemble what they describe
- Codified - require a knowledge of language, linguistic rules and definitions.
- Mental Stimuli - require cogitation, finding conceptual equivalences, or mental visualisation
- Subject to flux - meanings of words may shift over time and between locations
The plane of expression is how something is said, written or designed affects how it is understood and conveyed by the viewer.
Images are iconic signs, this means they involve direct perception - they resemble what they represent.
Plane of abstraction is how an image is captured and rendered affects the reading of meaning. For example the levels of realism - from photograph to simple drawing.
Anchorage - used to describe the overlap between words and images, a complimentary relationship. Like how a commentator helps add meaning to what is happening to the viewers.
Types of anchorage -
Anchorage - used to describe the overlap between words and images, a complimentary relationship. Like how a commentator helps add meaning to what is happening to the viewers.
Types of anchorage -
- Word specific
- Image specific
- Dual message
- Convergent
- Parallel
Word Specific
Words providing all or most of the information needed to decode a message.
Words providing all or most of the information needed to decode a message.
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Star Wars 'crawl text' for The Force Awakens
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Word specific - Barbara Kruger
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Image Specific
Images providing all or most of the information needed to decode a message.
Images providing all or most of the information needed to decode a message.
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Paul Pope THB (filmic iconography)
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Stephanie Leinhos, Is There Something I Should Know?
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Dual Message
Words and images communicating the same message.
Words and images communicating the same message.
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Picture books/early advertising/french wrestling poster
Convergent (interdependent)
Words and images working together whilst also contributing information independantly.
Words and images working together whilst also contributing information independantly.
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Comic Books
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Children's Picture Books
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Parallel (Divergent)
Words and images that appear to follow different paths and/or communicate ideas that do not seem to interact.
Words and images that appear to follow different paths and/or communicate ideas that do not seem to interact.
Zuzu's Petals
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Tobias Schalken, Echo & Bounce
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The Treachery of Images
1) Text Message - the text in this image is french and translates to 'this is not a pipe'. It is shown to be written with confidence as a statement rather than, for example, a question.
2) Image Message - the image is an oil painting of a pipe with already contradicts the text stating there is no pipe. It is also a very realistic painting of a pipe.
3) Anchorage - At first glance and the understanding of the text it does not make sense, however at further look it is a painting of a pipe not an actual pipe like the text suggests. It shows the importance of the relationship between words and images.
2) Image Message - the image is an oil painting of a pipe with already contradicts the text stating there is no pipe. It is also a very realistic painting of a pipe.
3) Anchorage - At first glance and the understanding of the text it does not make sense, however at further look it is a painting of a pipe not an actual pipe like the text suggests. It shows the importance of the relationship between words and images.
Blog Task
Subvert and/or create an alternative design/slogan for Barbara Kruger’s ‘I shop therefore I am'
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Research on the background/meaning of this artwork - publicdelivery.org/barbara-kruger
Barbara Kruger's 'I shop therefore I am' comes from Rene Descartes' philosophical statement 'I think therefore I am'. Kruger is critiquing consumer culture and that personal identities are being defined by purchases and possessions. This is done through clever design and subtle visuals in the piece.
Design elements in this artwork I need to consider -
Design elements in this artwork I need to consider -
- Black & white/red contrast
- Red box around the image confines the space inside
- Index finger of the hand brings attention to the first 'I'
- Both 'I' are in italics for emphasis
- Background is blurred to make the red box stand out more
- 'Therefore' is smaller so 'I shop' and 'I am' is read first
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Final Design
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Session Four - Decoding Advertising
19th February
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Reading One - Jonathan Bignell MEDIA SEMIOTICS (Chapter Two)
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Reading Two - Roland Barthes RHETORIC OF THE IMAGE
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Magazine Ads
RECAP
Signifier + Signified = Denotative Sign (+ connotative sign)
Signifier + Signified = Denotative Sign (+ connotative sign)
- Denotation - literal meaning
- Connotation - secondary meaning
- Anchorage is how words and images work together and compliment each other (types looked in detail in the previous session)
- Myths are sets in mainstream culture
Denotation Connotation
Ads are -
Ads are relevant in the time in which they are made as they are based on the current Culture and political/social ideas. Usually the popular trend at the time.
Certain expectations are made for people to meet, such as ‘you need to earn this much by this age’ and this is represented through certain advertisements which use this stereotype to their advantage to sell more products or services.
- A currency
- Particular in a time and place
- Reinforcing cultures and myths
Ads are relevant in the time in which they are made as they are based on the current Culture and political/social ideas. Usually the popular trend at the time.
Certain expectations are made for people to meet, such as ‘you need to earn this much by this age’ and this is represented through certain advertisements which use this stereotype to their advantage to sell more products or services.
Advertising and Myth
Moral Values - cultural norms and ways of behaviour
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Aspirational Selling
Concealment - companies do not show the process or economical background of certain products, this could be to minimise production costs if not ethical and avoid complaints.
- Reflects a target consumer
- Plants the ‘seed of need’
- Mobile associations
- Links status and consumerism
Concealment - companies do not show the process or economical background of certain products, this could be to minimise production costs if not ethical and avoid complaints.
Maslow’s Hierarchy of Human Needs
Ads belong in Esteem and Love/Belonging
The advertising business is highly professional and competitive, companies spend thousands, if not millions, to advertise what they are selling to provide to consumers, with the aim to make even more money back.
Magazine Ads
Lingustic Message
Image Message
Magazine Ads
- Usually self contained
- Each products is different for a target audience
- The signification of the image and text s always intentional
Lingustic Message
- Non coded - denotative reading of image signs
- Coded - connotations of linguistic signs
Image Message
- Non coded - literal reading of linguistic signs
- Coded - symbolic/connotative reading of image signs
French Magazine Ad: PANZANI Analysis
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Different cultures have a national identity and nationalism, they are often well known and are used in advertising - stereotypes to reinforce their own message. For this pasta advertisement they use the Italian culture to emphasise it is ‘genuine’ pasta and they best to buy in the competitive market.
DIOR Ad: JOY - 2019
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This ad is heavily leaning towards the stereotypes of feminisation. Their target market for this product would mostly be women so they used the current beauty standards, and the most popular celebrity at the time, to their advantage. They chose Jennifer Lawrence for her looks as well as popularity, because of The Hunger Games. Even the colour of the perfume reflects this - the colour pink is culturally a sign for femininity and women.
Blog Task
Conduct a brief semiotic analysis on a contemporary advertisement of your choice.
McDonald's Stages - 2019
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Session Five - The Graphic Code of Comics
26th February
Reading - Nick Dodds VAROOMLAB JOURNAL
Comic books are a set of graphic signs that artists use to tell a story. These draw signs are unique only to comic strips as they have evolved over time for easy understanding by readers. This means they can be enjoyed by any age. Surface efficiency above underlying complexity.
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Panels and Gutters
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Sound Effects and Symbolic Icons
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Winsor McKay, Little Nemo in Slumberland
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Scott McCloud, Understanding Comics
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Encoding - Creating
Decoding - Reading
Understanding and making connection (Anchorage) between the words and images.
Plurivectorial Flow
Unlike other storytelling forms, such as books, comics show everything at the same time. Focus and direction eye movement can be erratic - the reader is constantly looking all over the pages to understand the story.
Reader control stratergies
- Use of the multiframe (the page skeleton/structure of a comic)
- Strip ellipses
- Key panel co-ordinates
- Page breaks and cliff hangers
- Negative space
- Transition types
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Joshua Kotter, Skyscrapers of the Midwest
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Stan Lee and John Buscema, How to draw comics the marvel way
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David Mack, The Alchemy (Part Nine)
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Some comics ‘break the rules’ and go outside the established transition types. In the way it has been done adds depth and originally to a comic making it more appealing to the readers.
Blog Task
Find examples of comic artists that take innovative approaches to page layout
Session Six - Subculture and Style
5th March
Reading - Dick Hebdige HOWL
The term subculture goes back to the 1800's, early studies refer to deviant groups or an urban underclass. "Sub" refers to a lower class/rank like subordinate or subterranean. It is associated with post 1945 youth subcultures - like the rise of the teenager.
A subculture is a minority group that stands apart from the prevailing mainstream culture.
A subculture is a minority group that stands apart from the prevailing mainstream culture.
Mainstream Culture
Consensus
- Organisation of a society into hierarchical structures
- Shaped by prominent political, media and social interests
- Also called dominant culture
- Found in institutions, government, laws and economic systems
- Schol, work, university, media, consumer culture
- Dominant ideology - reflects interests of powerful social groups
- Can only operate through consensus
Consensus
- Refusal to participate in mainstream culture
- Desire to disrupt elements of mainstream culture
- Empowerment (personal autonomy)
- Impotence (lack of power/influence)
Case Study One - The Beats (1950's America)
The Beats, a sub-cultural elite of mostly young, white, educated, middle-class men in 1950s America, were a force of rebellion against the conformity and materialism of the post-WWII era. Writers like William Burroughs, Allen Ginsberg, Jack Kerouac, Gregory Corso, and Lawrence Ferlingetti, embodied the "beaten" spirit, signifying their alienation from mainstream society. Their literature challenged the dominant 1950s culture, rejecting consumerism and the Cold War's military-industrial complex. They championed anti-censorship and moral ambiguity, advocating for liberal attitudes towards sex, gender, and relationships. Underlying their work was a search for spirituality and individual autonomy. Their writing style was iconoclastic, freeform, and experimental, reflecting the expressionistic spirit of abstract painting and be-bop jazz.
Square Values
Beat Values
- Mainstream culture
- Deferred gratification/planned future action
- Conformity to bureaucratic rules
- Comfort in routine - strong work ethic
- Consumerism = status
- Family as moral center
- Defined gender roles
- Deference to church & state
- Fatalism
Beat Values
- Counter-cultural
- Hedonism - leads to personal enlightenment
- Spontaneous action/new experiences
- Non-conformity
- Distain for work ethic
- Anti-materialistic
- Spiritual > interest in other
- Non-binary relationships
- Belief in self-autonomy
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The Holy Barbarians - Lipton 1959
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'Beat-chick' representation from late 1950's
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Beat exploitation flicks in the 60's
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Case Study Two - Punk (1970's Britain)
'No subculture has sought with more grim determination than the punks to detach itself from the taken-for-granted landscape of normalised forms’
Hebdige - subculture & the meaning of style 1979
While the 1970s British political and social context provides a crucial backdrop, the core focus here lies in understanding the influence of the subcultural elite on punk. This includes the distinctive dress code and rituals that defined the movement, the emphasis on DIY design, which portrayed the creative process, and the deliberate detournement of mainstream texts, repurposing them for punk's own purposes.
'No subculture has sought with more grim determination than the punks to detach itself from the taken-for-granted landscape of normalised forms’
Hebdige - subculture & the meaning of style 1979
While the 1970s British political and social context provides a crucial backdrop, the core focus here lies in understanding the influence of the subcultural elite on punk. This includes the distinctive dress code and rituals that defined the movement, the emphasis on DIY design, which portrayed the creative process, and the deliberate detournement of mainstream texts, repurposing them for punk's own purposes.
Punk Dress-Code
- Anti-taste: reflecting social dislocation
- Collage & bricolage (use of the safety pin)
- Provocative: adoption of fetishist wear and sexualised shock imagery
- Subversion and co-opting of loaded cultural signs
- Cross-gender dress
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Subculture Rituals
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Punk Visual Lexicon/Semiotic Code
- Energetic/urgent
- Crudely produced
- Cheaply printed (xerox) - restricted use of colour
- Mix of photomontage/collaged elements
- Lettering: ransom note style/stencilled/use of Letraset
- Themes - class, consumerism, sexuality, criminality, anti-mainstream
The primacy of the 45 - economy, fury and spontaneity
Blog Task
Define what subculture is, using at least one academic source in a single paragraph
A subculture is defined as a social group that exists within a larger culture, characterized by distinct values, beliefs, and behaviors that differentiate it from the mainstream. According to ScienceDirect, subcultures often adopt an oppositional stance to the dominant culture, forming around shared interests and lifestyles that reflect their unique identity. This differentiation allows members to express solidarity and create a sense of belonging through their shared experiences.
www.sciencedirect.com/topics/social-sciences/subcultures
A subculture is defined as a social group that exists within a larger culture, characterized by distinct values, beliefs, and behaviors that differentiate it from the mainstream. According to ScienceDirect, subcultures often adopt an oppositional stance to the dominant culture, forming around shared interests and lifestyles that reflect their unique identity. This differentiation allows members to express solidarity and create a sense of belonging through their shared experiences.
www.sciencedirect.com/topics/social-sciences/subcultures
Session Seven - Gender, Identity and Representation
12th March
Reading - Laura Mulvey VISUAL PLEASURE AND NARRATIVE CINEMA
Sex
Gender
Gender roles can change over time and reflects cultural change, explored in visual culture and media, such as magazines, movies and social media.
- Biological differences between men and women
- Official documents assigned at birth
Gender
- Cultural roles of masculinity and femininity
- Not natural properties but social constructs
Gender roles can change over time and reflects cultural change, explored in visual culture and media, such as magazines, movies and social media.
Botticelli, Venus and Mars - 1485
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Richard Hamilton, 1956
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Sex Education, 2019 - 2023
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Gender Studies is interrogating the political, economic, scientific, and social elements that affect the attitudes to gender. Nature vs nurture - gender learnt at an early age.
Cultural Patriarchy
Cultural Patriarchy
Life Cover, 1950
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GOOD GIRL Typeface, Marion Bisserier
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Women MPs, March 2025
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Gender Performance
Non-binary and transgender are some of the ways people can express themselves in a way separate from the sex they are assigned at birth which is becoming more culturally accepted.
- Social construct
- Performative act
- Socio-historical conditioning
- Culturally embedded everyday
- Reiteration-Sedimentation-Perpetuation (Judith Butler)
Non-binary and transgender are some of the ways people can express themselves in a way separate from the sex they are assigned at birth which is becoming more culturally accepted.
The Male/Female Gaze
Scopophilia - the erotic gaze
Rear Window, Hitchcock - 1954
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Male body in modern Hollywood, Steve Neale
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The male gaze is the act of representing women in visual media from a heterosexual male point of view- which often reduces women to objects for the male pleasure. Women are depicted in the passive role of the observed whereas males are depicted as active observers in viewing females from their perspectives. These types of media were made by men with no female behind the scene
The female gaze is often seen as ‘spectacular male bodies’, muscular men in media are often the main focus of the female gaze and used in media targeting towards women. In my opinion some women do not care about the physique of men but their actions instead - this could be shown in some movies which do not focus purely on having a ‘good-looking’ male lead, such as ‘The Holiday’.
Subordination - the social presence of a women is different to that of a man
Letraset art sheets, 1966
Power Dynamic - reinforced patriarchy
- Men inhabit the world of work
- Women inhabit the world of home
The Tiger Who Came To Tea, Judith Kerr - 1968
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Mother and daughter are at home and everyone she suggests is at the door are men at work. The dad suggests the solution to the problem - she depends on him. The tiger represents ‘wild masculinity’ which disrupts their domestic household. The mum and Sophie do not do anything towards the problem and the only thing the mum was concerned about was there not being anything for the dad to eat or drink when he got home from work.
Analysing Style Magazines
I believe style magazines can be progressive about current gender roles and represent many subcultures, however they will always be seen as over edited versions of people with unobtainable body standards which can be harmful for viewers, especially at a young age. Magazines are often separated by gender opting to advertise towards one gender rather others, they are also moving more online due to the current media culture where people would rather get their news online rather than a newspaper/magazine. The overall themes of these magazines are conveyed with colour - blue is seen as a ‘boy colour’ whereas pink is seen as a ‘girl colour’ which specify which gender they are aimed towards even if it isn’t stated.
Themes
Themes
- Leisure v work - ‘anticipation of pleasure’
- Status - selling a happier self
- Consumerism - links gender identity with consumption(advertising)
- Sexuality - often more common than we think
Cover Analysis
These two covers are aimed separately towards male and females. Firstly, The colours again indicate blue for masculinity and pink for femininity. In the left cover there is minimal writing around the male figure who sits in a strong pose seemingly on a boat, this would appeal to men as it also shows his watch is stereotypical for males to to up upon and desire. The pose reminds me of when men used to hunt and kill their prey, they would stand on it with one foot to take a picture - intimidating, dominating pose. Male gaze - wealth and status. Beabadoobee is a current popular singer who is posing to convey as she is told to wearing popular clothing in today’s culture and it makes her stand out in front of the pink background. Her pose is not as modest but she doesn’t take up as much space on the page. She is also surrounded by more text with one section about porn stars - stereotypical view of women which has nothing to do with beabadoobee. The sections feel more like gossip rather than the bold text on the GQ magazine with different topics such as ‘most stylish hotels in the world’ rather than skincare or ‘how cool girls do Christmas dressing’. There will always be stereotypical terms used in magazines to attract viewers attention and get media coverage as this is one of the only ways to get peoples attention in todays culture - providing unrealistic role models. On the other hand, people know the language and imagery can be full of irony and humour, provides a sense of community and a place for gender exploration encouraging experimentation for men and women.
Blog Task
Conduct a review of Laura Mulvey’s essay - Visual Pleasure & Narrative Cinema
Laura Mulvey's 1975 essay "Visual Pleasure and Narrative Cinema" uses psychoanalytic theory to critique how classical Hollywood cinema structures visual pleasure around male desire. She introduces the concept of the "male gaze," arguing that traditional films satisfy scopophilia through both pleasure and narcissistic identification for male spectators. Women in these films are typically presented as objects for both characters within the film and viewers, while men actively advance the narrative. The male gaze operates through the camera's perspective, male characters' viewpoints, and the assumed male spectator's position. Mulvey suggests that women pose a castration threat in a patriarchal culture, which cinema manages either through investigation of the female figure or through scopophilia that transforms women's bodies into erotic objects. She ultimately calls for the destruction of traditional visual pleasure in cinema and the creation of a new language of desire that challenges patriarchal structures. Despite later expansions and critiques of her framework, Mulvey's essay remains foundational in feminist film theory for exposing how visual media reinforces gender power imbalances.
Session Eight - Global Culture/Ethical Design
19th March
Framing Globalisation, themes:
The Global Village
- The global village
- Trade without borders
The Global Village
- shared common destiny - health, environment
- cultural imperialism, disproportionate effect on one culture over another
- cultural exchange and hybridity - mix of local/indigenous culture with global influence
- the post-traditional community - economic and technological impact on community relations
Environmental Concerns, Blue Planet II, 2017
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Coronavirus Outbreak, 2020
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Traditional Community
Post-Traditional Community
- being rooted - sense of belonging, fixed local pattern
- historical ties - linked to length of family residence
- fixed spatial environment - private/public spaces
- shared rituals - collective celebration, community events
- moral certainty - respect for community hierarchy
Post-Traditional Community
- transient connections - people move more frequently for work and leisure
- changing spatial environment - town planning reflecting socio-economic change
- digital integration - the growth of online virtual communities, individual and global narratives via new-media technologies
Northumberland, 1897
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Abstract Map of Internet Connectivity
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Trade Without Borders
Since 1980’s there has been a growth and emphasis on global economics. National borders are becoming less relevant and they are not as open to trade with other communities. Movement in from the west is changing the service based economies with rager companies taking control of the economy.
Since 1980’s there has been a growth and emphasis on global economics. National borders are becoming less relevant and they are not as open to trade with other communities. Movement in from the west is changing the service based economies with rager companies taking control of the economy.
Franchisation of the high street, since 1980s
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Post Covid Impact
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The Role of Global Corporations
The difference between a corporation and a brand is, a corporation is the entity behind their identity of branding. This growth can be traced back to the 1980’s in which trade liberalisation and global economics has allowed the growth of these corporations and the evolution of design.
Immoral - accumulated power, wealth and influence
Ephemeral - can change their corporation quickly
Aggressively Competitive - driven by growth and power
The Corporate Brand
Designed - corporate identity and logotype
Disseminated - advertising, billboards, celebrity endorsement, product placement, web-advertising and sponsorships
The difference between a corporation and a brand is, a corporation is the entity behind their identity of branding. This growth can be traced back to the 1980’s in which trade liberalisation and global economics has allowed the growth of these corporations and the evolution of design.
Immoral - accumulated power, wealth and influence
Ephemeral - can change their corporation quickly
Aggressively Competitive - driven by growth and power
The Corporate Brand
Designed - corporate identity and logotype
Disseminated - advertising, billboards, celebrity endorsement, product placement, web-advertising and sponsorships
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The Ani-Corporate Movement
The use of design as a weapon of propaganda, subversion and culture jamming. Using social media for different subcultures and adopting community forums for discussion.
Creative Resistance Strategies
The use of design as a weapon of propaganda, subversion and culture jamming. Using social media for different subcultures and adopting community forums for discussion.
Creative Resistance Strategies
- brandalism and detournment(hacking into the corporate method of communication)
- pranksters and interventions
- urban environmentalists
- ethical and sustainable design practice
Billboard Liberation Front, San Francisco
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Detournement, London
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Artist Intervention, Jill Posener - 1979
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Designers ethical code is being responsible for the work you put out into the world. If it contains messages or imagery it needs to be appropriate for all cultures and not offensive to anyone. If it contains a new opinion we influence generations who are always branching off into new subcultures which could be influenced by media presented to them.
Blog Task
Find examples of artists/designers who take a strong ethical and/or political stance in their work.
Shepard Fairey - Hope Poster
Political art, social justice, and activism |
Yoko Ono - Add Colour (Refugee Boat)
Peace and social justice, encouraging viewers to engage with important issues. |
Ellen Lupton - Typography and Books
Intersection of design and ethics, advocating for responsible design practices |
April Greiman - Artis 89
social and cultural themes |
Session Nine - The Cult of Technology
16th April
Reading - Sherry Turkle ALONE TOGETHER
Session Ten - The Research Journey
23th April
Reading - Gray, C. and Malins, J. A GUIDE TO THE RESEARCH PROCESS IN ART AND DESIGN
What are the differences between creative and academic research?
Creative research is all about generating ideas and artistic expressions, using methods like brainstorming and experimentation to produce outputs like writing or paintings, evaluated based on originality and impact. Academic research expands your knowledge and solves problems, employing rigorous methods such as data collection online or physical and then analysis, judged on validity and contribution to the field. Essentially, creative research focuses on making something new, while academic research emphasizes understanding something new.
Creative research is all about generating ideas and artistic expressions, using methods like brainstorming and experimentation to produce outputs like writing or paintings, evaluated based on originality and impact. Academic research expands your knowledge and solves problems, employing rigorous methods such as data collection online or physical and then analysis, judged on validity and contribution to the field. Essentially, creative research focuses on making something new, while academic research emphasizes understanding something new.
Theory - A theory is a system of ideas that describe or explain an experience within the world
What is original?
What is original?
- Unexplored territory
- Application to a new context
- A deeper dive into a topic
1. Initial Ideas
Manageable - Within given word count, time considerations
Original - Contribute to body of knowledge, avoid well known routes
Relevant - Within the field of visual culture
Interesting - An issue deemed worthy of study, keep motivated
2. Framing a Question
Locate a specific question which will 'frame' the focus of research and the essay as a whole
Framing a Research Question
Preliminary Reading - Get familiar with the topic and its readings
Take a fresh angle - Any unanswered questions? Take a different perspective
Keep your scope narrow - Do no choose a broad question to fit into the word count
3. Review the Literature
What has been written about the topic to date?
What are the relevant theoretical frameworks?
What are the key texts or studies in that field?
What methods have been used?
4. Choose your Method
Choice of research method
Must ‘fit’ the research question
How well does it measure what it’s meant to?
Manageable - Within given word count, time considerations
Original - Contribute to body of knowledge, avoid well known routes
Relevant - Within the field of visual culture
Interesting - An issue deemed worthy of study, keep motivated
2. Framing a Question
Locate a specific question which will 'frame' the focus of research and the essay as a whole
Framing a Research Question
Preliminary Reading - Get familiar with the topic and its readings
Take a fresh angle - Any unanswered questions? Take a different perspective
Keep your scope narrow - Do no choose a broad question to fit into the word count
3. Review the Literature
What has been written about the topic to date?
What are the relevant theoretical frameworks?
What are the key texts or studies in that field?
What methods have been used?
4. Choose your Method
Choice of research method
Must ‘fit’ the research question
How well does it measure what it’s meant to?
Blog Task
Choose a topic of your own or select from the list below:
- Memes and postmodernism
- Typography and album covers
- The role of inspiration in the creative process
- Zines as subversive media
- The role of emotion in the creative process
- The illustration or design process -digital vs tools
- Diversity in children’s picturebooks
- Subculture
Chosen Topic - Typography and Album Covers
Research Question - To what extent does the typographic design of album covers influence listener perception and emotional response to the music contained within?
1. People
Recruit about 50 music listeners with different tastes and wide age range
2. Covers
Show them 20 album covers - these covers will be in different genres, with each genre split between a modern and vintage typography style.
3. What They Do
Participants will rate each cover on:
Use statistics to see if the different typography styles lead to different perceptions and levels of interest
5. Goal
Find out if certain typography styles help album covers communicate the music's genre and attract listeners
Research Question - To what extent does the typographic design of album covers influence listener perception and emotional response to the music contained within?
1. People
Recruit about 50 music listeners with different tastes and wide age range
2. Covers
Show them 20 album covers - these covers will be in different genres, with each genre split between a modern and vintage typography style.
3. What They Do
Participants will rate each cover on:
- How well they guess the music's genre
- How the cover makes them feel (happy, sad ect.)
- How likely they are to listen to the music
Use statistics to see if the different typography styles lead to different perceptions and levels of interest
5. Goal
Find out if certain typography styles help album covers communicate the music's genre and attract listeners
Session Eleven - Essay Writing and Referencing
5 tips to writing an essay
- Use the right source material - not just online google, use one search
- Have something to say - forming an argument before starting to write
- Hone your structure - intro, main body, conclusion
- Drafting - editing the references and structure, proof read
- Polish your tone - write formally, do not use I or my
Referencing
Direcly quote from a source
Paraphrase from a source
Refer to a visual source
Also include a reference for images
www.citethemrightonlne.com
Citation - in the body of text (surname, page number)
Reference List - at the end of the essay to locate source
Quotes longer than 30 words should be indented and not to use too many
Take out sentences with ‘…’
Direcly quote from a source
Paraphrase from a source
Refer to a visual source
Also include a reference for images
www.citethemrightonlne.com
Citation - in the body of text (surname, page number)
Reference List - at the end of the essay to locate source
Quotes longer than 30 words should be indented and not to use too many
Take out sentences with ‘…’
Paraphrasing
- Using your source quote and reword it in your way to show your understanding of the text related to the essay
Bibliography
Images - first name and surname required, do not need sizes
- All the cites sources and additional reading even if not included
- Listed alphabetically by surname or organisation
- No numbers or lists by source type
- No fullstops needed
Images - first name and surname required, do not need sizes